Skin Care Products
The Advertising Dilemma: Fact vs. Fiction
Millions of dollars a year are spent on very expensive, well marketed, fancy moisturizers and rejuvenating magic formulas that each claim to be the latest innovation in skin care. I tell my New Jersey and Philadelphia patients that most of these are no better than fancy smelling mayonnaise.
There are decades of scientific documentation that alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), especially Retin-A and glycolic acid, are medically proven to refine and thicken the top layer of your skin, and produce more collagen and elastic fibers in the deeper layers of your skin.
While you can buy AHAs in the drug store, through TV guides and magazine ads and TV promotions, doctors can prescribe stronger alpha hydroxy acids and prescription Retin-A to better fit your skin care needs. With prescription strength skin care, you will have products that are proven to work.
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How Should I Start?
You should start with a glycolic acid wash and moisturize with a combination of a glycolic acid and Retin-A, as well as sunblock. Later, more sophisticated products like topical vitamin C and E and other antioxidants can be added along with any necessary moisturizers, redness reducers, acne products or other skin treatments. Our Philadelphia and New Jersey patients enjoy a customized skin care plan that we develop during your consultation. Whether you have dry, oily, pigmented, sensitive, or acne prone skin, we can put together the right combination of products to get your skin looking and feeling great.
Sun Protection is Key
I always stress the importance of becoming educated about sunblocks, especially because Retin-A will make your skin burn more easily. Most sunblocks only have chemicals in them to block the short wave UVA and UVB waves that cause redness, so you think you are safe. Wrong.
You need a sunblock with real skin cancer protection: a physical barrier. Only then will you have the protection you need against long range UVA waves that cause cancer, wrinkles, and pigment.
There are 3 physical barriers: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, or parsol 1789 (avobenzone). While zinc and titanium are thought to be effective for 2 to 3 hours, parsol 1789 (avobenzone) even with mexoyl (helioplex) to help stabilize it, is unstable and inactivated by the sun in 80 minutes. It is hard for most people to reapply that often.
If you do not want to reapply your block that often, glōminerals® makeup has powdered zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as sunblock in their products, even their lipsticks.
Will Makeup Protect Me From The Sun?
Yes, if it has titanium dioxide or zinc oxide mineral based products. The glminerals product line is the only one with both products, and it provides a skin care protection of SPF 20 for 2 to 3 hours. They are reasonably priced and only available in a physician's office.
Why Should I Use Retin-A and Glycolic Acid Together?
Retin-A is an inflammatory acid that irritates your skin and can cause it to be red, sore and scaly. Used alone, 50% of people abandon the treatment because of this. Glycolic acid's mode of action is anti-inflammatory. Because glycolic acid has such a totally different pathway to restore the skin and achieve results similar to Retin-A, the two acids, when used together, are synergistic or additive. This has been microscopically documented using skin biopsy.
Medical Proof - What Happens Under The Microscope?
Basically, AHAs decrease the "glue" that holds dead cells on the surface of the skin. This allows the dead cells to slough off, leaving behind a layer of smoother, softer skin. A thick layer of dead cells on the surface of the skin gives the complexion a rough, dull appearance. When these cells are removed, they expose a layer of fresh new cells. This layer has a smoother texture and a more uniform color.
In addition, AHAs help to dissolve the material that clogs pores. This allows the pores to drain better, decreasing the tendency for acne lesions to form. Furthermore, continued use of Alpha Hydroxy Acids appears to stimulate new cell growth.
Microscopically, three things happen. The thin top layer of your skin is replaced with a much thicker, plumper layer of healthy cells. In the deeper layers of the skin, the collagen and elastic tissue is restored dramatically, not only in larger amounts, but also in the tissue realignment to a more youthful position. For this reason, fine wrinkles can be reduced.
Where Else Can I Use Alpha Hydroxy Acids?
All areas of the body appear to respond well to treatment with AHA. However, the hands, arms, neck and chest, and legs all improve at a slower rate than the face. Therefore, many patients elect to treat these areas more aggressively, by using stronger products containing higher concentrations of AHA, or having several light AHA peels or intense pulsed light (IPL) treatments done.
Click here to visit our photo gallery and view real patients' skin care results.
Why Add Microdermabrasion Or A Chemical Peel?
Both microdermabrasion and chemical peels are medically documented to remove dead skin, but more importantly, they are also proven to stimulate the production of collagen. Far more effective than a facial at your local day spa, these will boost your daily skin care results. There is no downtime with microdermabrasion, but some peels can result in redness and flaking for up to a week.
What If My Skin Has Broken Blood Vessels, Enlarged Pores, Resistant Browns or Persistent Acne?
Try light treatments. Click here to learn more about peels and photorejuvenation. We offer intense pulsed light (IPL) photorejuvenation, broadband light (BBL) photorejuvenation, and Omnilux™ or Gentle Waves® diode light treatments.
If you are interested in learning more about medical options for skin care in New Jersey and Philadelphia, click here to request a consultation at the Hughes Center for Aesthetic Medicine. Or you can call us at (856) 528-4896 to schedule your appointment.
